Shanxi Vinegar Cabbage

山西醋溜白菜

English: Shanxi Vinegar Cabbage

Chinese: 山西醋溜白菜

Pinyin: shanxi cu liu baicai

Literal: Shanxi vinegar stir-fry cabbage

Shanxi Vinegar Cabbage is a workhorse in my kitchen; a go-to when I think I’ve finished cooking for the evening but perhaps one more veg dish is needed, and quick. This can be a last minute addition without panic. I’ve made this from whole cabbage to bowl in under five minutes before. It seems almost unfair that something so hasty should bring such pleasure to the table.

V inegar Cabbage (醋溜白菜 | cu liu baicai) belongs to a family of vinegar-based stir-fries (醋溜菜 | cu liu cai) where that crucial balance of sour, sweet and savoury is struck with a few careful additions to the wok. The vinegar cuts, the sugar soothes, the soy sauce grounds everything in umami depth.

In Shanxi province, to the West of Beijing, vinegar is not another condiment next to the stove, but a fundamental flavour. Chinese say the locals cannot survive without vinegar (山西人离不开醋) and after a day of eating in Datong or any of the cities of the province, you’ll understand there’s more truth than myth to the saying.

Their prized black vinegar develops slowly, patiently. Sorghum, barley and peas ferment in clay vessels, gathering complexity over three, four, five years. The result is nothing like a cheap supermarket vinegar. Last time I was in Datong I was sipping vinegars at tastings. There’s a roundness, a weight and a gentle sweetness. A few tablespoons splashed into this dish is the best way to enjoy a real artisan food.

Serves 2

Ingredients

1 small napa cabbage (about 400-500g)

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon ginger, finely chopped

2 tablespoon Shanxi black vinegar + ½ teaspoon to finish

1 tablespoon sugar

½ tablespoon soy sauce

½ tablespoon dark soy sauce

Salt, a pinch

White pepper, a pinch

1 teaspoon cornstarch + 1 teaspoon of water, mixed into a slurry

Sesame oil

Method

  1. Prepare the cabbage. Cut the base off and discard. Slice the cabbage in half lengthways, and then slice it into bite-sized slices. It’s not essential, but the traditional way the thicker white part to slice is at a diagonal (see picture 1 below) so you end up with thin slices.

  2. Prepare the sauce. In a small bowl, add the Shanxi black vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, salt, pepper and half the garlic, and mix until the sugar has dissolved. In a separate bowl, add the cornstarch and a tablespoon of water.

  3. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok over a medium heat. Add the garlic and ginger and stir fry until fragrant (about 30 seconds).

  4. Turn up the heat, then add the chopped cabbage and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes, or until the cabbage begins to soften, but retains some crunch.

  5. Pour the vinegar sauce over the cabbage and toss quickly. Add 2-3 tablespoons of water, then cover the wok and reduce the heat, allowing the cabbage to cook through and absorb the flavours, cooking for 1-2 minutes.

  6. Remove the lid, and then pour in the cornstarch liquid. Increase the heat again and let the sauce bubble until it becomes thick and coats the cabbage in a glossy sauce.

  7. Taste and adjust the seasoning adding more salt, sugar or vinegar if necessary (there should be a tang from the vinegar).

  8. Remove from the heat and add a few drops of sesame oil, half a teaspoon of vinegar if you want, then serve alongside your main meal.

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Four Jewel Vegetables | 炒四宝