Beijing Crispy Hairtail Fish
酥炸带鱼
English: Crispy Hairtail Fish
Chinese: 酥炸带鱼
Pinyin： su zha dai yu
Literal: Crispy fried hairtail fish
In the constellation of dishes served alongside Beijing’s beloved chun bing, many are valued as much for their texture as for their flavour. Where tanzi rou offers melting richness and julienned vegetables bring fresh crunch, Crispy Hairtail Fish has its own devoted following. There are different versions of this dish - some soft and richly marinated, some crispy and battered, and then this: pieces of bony hairtail fish that are first fried until golden, then lightly coated in a tangy-sweet sauce that seeps into the batter. You can’t help but suck the flesh, batter and glaze from the bone.
The key to the dish lies in managing the balance. The fish must spend just enough time in the sauce to absorb flavour, but not so long that the crisp exterior softens completely. Done well, it delivers a pleasing dual texture: lightly crisp on the outside, tender within, with a bright savoury-sweet glaze. Unlike many chun bing accompaniments, this is rarely wrapped inside the pancake itself, but instead enjoyed between wraps, something to nibble whilst contemplating the next perfect combination of fillings.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
FOR THE FISH
500g prepared hairtail (带鱼) (gutted and scaled)
1 ½ tbsp Shaoxing
5 tbsp cornstarch
500ml oil (for frying)
FOR THE MARINADE
1 ½ tbsp Shaoxing wine
3 slices of ginger - julienned
1 scallion - cut into 1-inch pieces
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp white pepper
FOR THE SAUCE
3 tbsp light soy sauce
3 tbsp Shanxi black vinegar
1 tbsp Shaoxing wine
5 tbsp water
Pinch of salt
4 tbsp white sugar
1 thumb of ginger - peeled and julienned
2 scallion - white part only, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 star anise
1 red chilli - whole
Method
Note: If you cannot find hairtail fish, then you can replace with an oily fish such as mackerel or sardines.
Cut the fish into 25cm (9 inch) pieces and then place in a large bowl. Add the Shaoxing wine, ginger, scallion, salt and pepper. Mix the ingredients in with your hands and then leave to marinate for 15-30 minutes at room temperature. The longer the better.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. In a medium bowl, add the soy sauce, vinegar, Shaoxing wine, water, salt and sugar. Mix until the sugar dissolves.
Remove the fish from the marinade when ready. Pat the surface of the skin dry with paper towels.
Heat the oil in a wok to 170°C (340°F) over a low heat.
While the oil is heating up, pour the cornstarch into a small bowl and then coat the fish pieces in the cornstarch. This will create a delicate crispy shell.
For the first fry, lower 4-5 fish (depending on the size of your wok) into the oil and fry for 3-5 minutes. Turn occasionally so the fish fries on both sides and turns a very light golden. Remove and drain on a wire rack, and repeat frying with the remaining fish.
For the second fry, increase the oil temperature to 190°C (375°F). Fry the fish in batches for 60-90 seconds, until they turn a deep, uniform golden brown and are extremely crispy. This step ensures crispiness and cooks out any residual moisture. Drain on the wire rack. Let them cool slightly but not completely.
In a clean wok, add 1 tablespoon of oil over a medium heat. Add the ginger, spring onion, star anise and chilli. Stir-fry for about 30 seconds, or until fragrant
Pour in the mixed sauce, bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve any remaining sugar. Let it bubble gently for 1-2 minutes to slightly thicken and meld the flavours. Remove from heat.
Whilst the sauce is bubbling away, place the fish in a single layer into a large, shallow dish (glass or ceramic is best).
Immediately pour the hot sweet and sour sauce evenly over the warm fish.
Let the fish sit in the sauce at room temperature for at least 20 minutes (an hour or two is better) turning every once in a while. As they sit, the crispy skin will soften slightly but the fish will soak up the sauce, becoming packed with flavour. You can refrigerate here and serve later, although they will be less crispy.
Transfer the fish to a serving platter. Spoon some of the remaining sauce from the dish over the top. This is usually served at room temperature, rather than hot.
