Torn Flatbread & Lamb Soup
羊肉泡饃
English: Torn Flatbread & Lamb Soup
Chinese: 羊肉泡饃
Pinyin: yangrou pao mo
Literal: Lamb torn bread
In the heart of Xi’an, tucked behind the ancient stone city walls, the Muslim Quarter hums with the clatter of woks, the clap of cleavers on chopping blocks, the sizzle of lamb skewers, the yells of street sellers and the curious murmurs of crowds. I love the hum of this city, alive with foodies and artisan chefs that are following in the footsteps of all that went before. The dishes in Xi’an are centuries old, recipes that have been tweaked over thousands of years, but remain a true to this old Silk Road city.
One of the most iconic foods in the city is yang rou pao mo (羊肉泡馍)—a dish any Xi’an local will name among their favourites, often with passionate opinions about the best spot to eat it. It’s built on three parts: a rich lamb broth, slices of tender mutton, and torn pieces of a dense flatbread called mo (馍), more specifically tuo tuo mo (坨坨馍), which is a local bread similar to a pita or naan. The name breaks down as yang rou (lamb), pao (soak), and mo (flatbread)— simple to explain, but difficult to master.
Getting it right means patience. In restaurants, the stock is simmered for 8 to 12 hours—but at home, 2 to 3 hours will be enough to tease out a rich flavour from the bones and spices. This was originally a breakfast. Diners would tear the bread into their own bowls, before handing it back to the cook for a few spoons of broth, but today, it’s more common to come ready made: a big steaming bowl of broth with bread and thin fensi noodles soaking in the soup, topped with lamb, coriander, spring onion and minced garlic. For final touches, diners often like to eat the soup with sweet pickled garlic, a dollop of chilli paste or extra handfuls of fresh coriander.
Serves 2
Ingredients
For the Broth
700–800g lamb bones (leg or spine pieces preferred)
250g lamb leg meat
3-4 litres water
2–3 spring onions, cut into 7–8cm lengths
5 slices ginger
2 star anise
2 black cardamom pods
1 cinnamon stick
3–5 thin slices dried angelica root (当归)
1 tsp fennel seeds
¼ tsp Sichuan peppercorns (optional)
1 small piece dried orange peel (about 2–3cm)
salt, to taste
½ tsp ground white pepper
For the rest
100g naan bread (or paomo bread), torn into thumbnail-sized pieces
40–50g dried vermicelli noodles
50g fresh wood ear mushrooms, shredded
2 spring onions, finely sliced
1 small bunch coriander, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
Light soy sauce, to taste
Chinese black vinegar, to taste
Salt, to taste
Chilli oil and pickled garlic, to serve (optional)
Method
Place the lamb bones and lamb meat in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook for 2–3 minutes to remove impurities. Drain and rinse the bones and meat under running water.
Return the cleaned bones and meat to the pot and add 4 litres fresh water. Bring to a boil, then skim off any foam that rises to the surface.
Add the spring onion, ginger, star anise, black cardamom, cinnamon stick, dried angelica, fennel seeds, Sichuan peppercorns, and dried orange peel. Reduce to a gentle simmer and cook for around 2½ hours, skimming occasionally. For the first 30 minutes, simmer without the lid, and then place the lid on, slightly ajar, for the last 1 ½ hours.
After about 2 hours, check the lamb meat. Once tender, remove it from the pot and set aside to cool. Continue simmering the bones for a further 30 minutes to deepen the flavour.
Taste the broth and season the broth with salt (start with around 1 tsp).
Strain the broth, discarding the aromatics and bones.
Tear the naan bread into small pieces roughly the size of a thumbnail. Soak the vermicelli noodles in warm water until softened, then drain, and slice the cooked lamb thinly.
Reheat the broth and season with a little light soy sauce, black vinegar, and additional salt if needed. Add the soaked vermicelli noodles and cook briefly until heated through.
Add the bread to the broth and simmer for 30 seconds. Don’t leave the bread in the broth for too long, otherwise it will completely absorb the broth.
Divide the soup between bowls. Arrange the sliced lamb on top, followed by the coriander, spring onions, and minced garlic.
Serve immediately with chilli oil and pickled garlic on the side.
