Gansu’s cuisine is one of the most distinctive in Northern China, shaped heavily by Hui Muslim communities rather than the Uyghur culture more commonly associated with northwestern food. Pork is largely absent. Instead, beef and lamb dominate. Wheat is king. Chillies are used, but sparingly compared to neighbouring Shaanxi. Flavour comes from clarity, fermentation, spice blends, and exceptional technique.

Recently I was reading Meera Sodha’s Fresh India, where she shares “Ten Ways to Raise Your Game in the Kitchen” for Indian cooking. It’s a brilliant guide for anyone starting their journey, and it got me thinking: Chinese food deserves its own version.

Looking at the recipe lists for Chinese food, you might easily be convinced you need a pantry the size of a small restaurant to get started with this cuisine. However, I’ve stripped it right back to the 20 essentials you need for Northern Chinese food.